Jacquemus: A generation of fashion stars vacated

Vetements, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Jacquemus... There are many commonalities in the fashion industry, such as the fact that they are good at using social media to promote themselves. “The network has made me famous, and I get customer feedback every day.” Simon Porte Jacquemus used social media to upload photos of clothes and set up online stores early before opening a physical store.

This year, the brand has redesigned the official website. The clothes appearing on the page no longer have a white wall as the bottom, and the models appear on the virtual stage in fashion. Behind it are a few rows of clothesline with clothes floating around. In addition to the official website and Net-a-Porter, Jacquemus also stayed in a number of online buyer shops such as Browns and MyTheresa. In his view, the rules of the game in the fashion industry have changed dramatically because of digital sales: "If you live in a small town, you can easily buy designer clothes on e-commerce just like me."

Since its inception in 2009, Jacquemus has been playing almost all of the benchmark buying stores in the industry. Recently, Net-a-Porter, a boutique fashion e-commerce platform, has also launched the “Bleu Blanc” (blue and white) ready-to-wear capsule series, which is asymmetrical, exaggerated, and deconstructed. These designers are good at concentrating all the elements. In the series.

Simon Porte Jacquemus, who created these seemingly swaying pieces, is a 90-year-old who grew up in a small town in southern France. He is only 26 years old this year. Sarah Rutson, vice president of global procurement at Net-a-Porter, commented on the young designer: "His innovations in the classic silhouette and intimate pricing have made Jacquemus's clothes on the line."

His looks are handsome, self-taught, and reasonably priced... His background, his work, his business model and his professional achievements have excited the Paris fashion industry. Four years ago, France described the young designer who first appeared in Paris Fashion Week: "A generation of fashion stars have risen."

At that time, Simon Porte Jacquemus had left his hometown of Mallemort for four years, a town with just over 7,000 permanent residents. He grew up in the family of the farmer, accompanied by the horse and the horse. At the age of 7, he made his first outfit, and the "fabric" was taken from the kitchen curtains. Ten years later, his fashion career began with the move to Paris, when Simon Porte Jacquemus made sales at Comme des Garçons during the day and went back to design at night.

“The reason why I started to get media attention is because of the freshness, bourgeois or business style before Paris Fashion Week, I am doing something completely different,” Simon Porte Jacquemus said in an interview. He was pushed to the spotlight with his friends, the designer of the hot brand Vetements, Demna Gvasalia and DJ Clara 3000. Both the media and the buyers believe they are capable of subverting the emerging creative talents of the Paris fashion industry.

But the initial stage of being stretched is always annoying to young people. Simon Porte Jacquemus is clearly aware that his first quarter profit must be sufficient to support the next season of development. Fortunately, the minimalist concept that designers admire helps to control costs, so customers rarely see functional designs such as extra pockets in Jacquemus's work. To this day, most of the brand's dress prices are still set at around 400 euros, and coats and jackets are between 700 euros and 900 euros. “My strategy is clear, to be a high-end ready-to-wear brand with a strong visual impact, but the price is the price of a contemporary design brand,” says Simon Porte Jacquemus.

Caroline de Maigret, Lady Gaga, Rihanna... The star wearing Jacquemus helped the brand to make a name for itself. However, some people have questioned that Jacquemus looks like the low-end versions of Comme des Garçons and Martin Margiela, but the designer himself is not in a hurry to deny. In an interview with BoF, he admitted that he was desperately trying to win the attention of the industry at first: attending fashion parties, going to French TV shows, eager to speak on social media such as Instagram, and even recruiting passersby on the street... After all, he started in Paris— - A market dominated by veteran luxury brands is more challenging for young people.

In order to prevent others from discovering his identity in the province, Simon Porte Jacquemus even deliberately erased his Nanfa accent. "When you have a name in Paris one day, you will be recognized by people all over the world." He still remembers the words he heard when he was a child. In 2015, he participated in the LVMH Designer Competition and eventually won a prize of 150,000 euros. The Jacquemus team slowly expanded to 25 people, and the gypsy-style office style became a thing of the past. The brand rented a studio in Paris.

"Although I live in Paris, I can still be a boy in the south of France." Childhood memory is a hotbed of inspiration for his design, as is the Spring/Summer 2017 collection. With the theme of the Provence colored clay figurines, Simon Porte Jacquemus puts the model in a thin white dress and walks out of the background with a straw hat, bringing people to the south of the hay, sea breeze and the sun. He has repeatedly stated that his idol is Jean Paul Gaultier. At the same time, the French symbol "Gaul Rooster" is also what he wants to express, which explains why we can always see the composition of the three French flags of blue, white and red in Jacquemus's works.

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