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God preferred heavy infantry to translate from Alpinist Vol.16, Mountain Profile, The Matterhorn text/Herve Barmasse, Luca Maspe

New era on the South Wall

When the “Nose of Zmet” attracted the best mountaineers in all of Europe, there seemed to be no possibility of further exploration on the South Wall. However, with careful observation, it is still possible to find some new and difficult routes. In the case of Gabul, he imagined that he could open up a route that embodied a modern climbing style in the most compact rocky area on the south wall. On August 15-16, 2002, he and Lavacetto completed the most demanding route on Pic Muzio in the South Wall: Padre Pio Pray for Us (pariah for Father Pio), located on the route and flowers of Koeniz. Ridge middle. In March 2004, two young climbers from Valle d'Aosta - Massimo Farina and Herve Barmasse (one of the authors) - completed The first winter climb of this route.

At that time, there were not many people among the young people who still paid attention to the Matterhorn to me. Earlier, at the age of 23, I had my own first route on the Matterhorn: on 14 August 2000, I and Brier’s young wizard Patrick Poletto (Patrick Poletto) The first climb of the steep wall between the “De Amicis” route on the south wall and the “Casaloto-Gracius” route is 6a+max. Two years later, I took the lead in completing the "Casa Lotto-Gracius" route by solo, and it was my father who completed the first winter climb of this route.

The temperature at departure was very low, and the cross that looked up at the top of the peak flashed in the sun. The footsteps on the snow covered the rock antelope, but the scent could be smelled by the morning breeze. I quickly climbed the gully leading to the Diffeye Ridge, and then cut right to the rocky section I and Patrick had climbed in 2000. After returning from that trip, I had felt that the Matterhorn had become an integral part of my life. But now I can only feel lonely, dark clouds cover the peak, began to sleet. I do not understand this route, but I am very clear about the legend of the first boarder. Even thinking about Renato Casalto and Jacaro Grassi in their heads - and certainly including all the predecessors who preceded me on this side of the rock - is enough to be awe-inspiring. .

Be careful, I fixed the rope in the first three sections. Then a rock fell into my helmet and warned me how dangerous the south wall was. I think it might be a sensible decision to pass quickly.

I imagined as I climbed. What if the Matterhorn was made of hard granite instead of loose limestone? But I quickly reminded myself that this unsatisfactory rock formation is one of the reasons that made the Matterhorn unique. Every step forward here requires reason, climbing is very difficult and always alert. It took me at least four hours before I passed the last fine pitch covered by powder snow to reach near the Tyndal peak. Seeing the snowstorm approaching from the West, I decided to go to the "Carrel" hut. At night I dreamed about beer and chocolate, and in the past 150 years of climbing history, Matterhorn has shown different images in the hearts of climbers.

future

The Matterhorn's climbing history has witnessed the development of the mountaineering itself. After the legendary first ascendant, the most aggressive climbers of each period have offered us a classic. Today, the two traditional routes have degenerated into a crowded tourist attraction. The road ropes have been almost fixed from the foot of the mountain to the top, and local guides living in valleys on both sides of the mountain have also been arguing over the issue of distribution of interest. From now on, perhaps only the imagination about exploring new routes and reinterpreting the old ones will give us enough reason to revisit the Big Bird's mouth.

Photo: On March 13, 1994, Catherine Nestor and Erik Decamp respectively soloed the Bonati and Schmidt routes, and then went to the top. Photo/Pascal Tournaire

In the next few years, there are still some routes to be repeated with solo or winter climbing. First of all, it should be considered, of course, is also relatively simple, is to use free climbing to repeat the existing equipment climbing route on the nose of “Ctom”. The "Piora Steiner" route may be the most promising - as far as I know, no one has ever tried to climb this route freely. Of course, all this takes time and courage. After all, the environment and rock conditions on the North Wall cannot be compared with those full of sunshine. In those places, young free climbing enthusiasts can test their own safety at a relatively safe level. Climbing skills.

Today, it is difficult to find a quiet place that belongs only to yourself in the Alps in August. But at the Matterhorn, as long as you avoid the traditional route, you still have the opportunity to experience this loneliness. Those routes on the coldest and most unfriendly rock walls are hard to get close to, and people are increasingly out of sight. It is worth to rediscover them and give them new life.

Although the definitions of the Matterhorn's existing image are inevitably ridiculously clichés, the Matterhorn in the “post-modern” climbing period is still a severe mountain that has not been completely tamed with artificial instruments. Even in the moment we were in, she still gave her own voice. On August 18, 2003, "La Cheminee" - the famous ridge of the lion's ridge that once tested both Winbay and Karel - collapsed after an unusually hot summer. The Matterhorn mountain has changed again. What kind of image she will have in the future and what kind of meaning it will be given is not known. However, as a climber who grows under her majesty, I cannot imagine that she will be forgotten.

(End of the article)

Remarks: The original authors Herve Barmasse and Luca Maspes, according to the former first person narrative, the first draft is Italian, translated into English by Linda Eklund and Christina Svendsen.

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